Lance
Key Master
Well, the trim energy lamps only seem to list a CE stamp, there's no indication they have C-tick and of course, like 99% of all LED bulbs they are almost a dead certainty to be made in China.
There's lots of good Chinese bulbs, and some not so good ones, you just have to do a bit of research, read feedbacks and forums etc, but even then, sometimes you get something not up to standard. But, the overall quality of Chinese lamps is definitely improving...
whynot20
Member
I had a look at the boxes from trim energy (i kept them cause of the warranty you never know still) they do have a C-tick on them. I completely agree there is a lot of bad products coming out of China but I think the quality is improving and it will probably take some time for it to filter through between the good and the bad.
It was actually quite funny as a friend bought the 8W downlights when I compare them they seem to be a lot brighter then the 9W but I guess it is double the price and the box is really nice, But the ones I have are fine it does what it needs and it's cheaper it is interesting though that the 8W is brighter so I think that there is big difference in different manufacturers out there, so research is the key to online shopping.
If I were trying to DIY I would be looking to taiwan suppliers as their products seem to be far better quality without a massive price jump.
deannam
Member
After reading these posts I've actually decided against putting LED downlights in the living room when we have our new ceiling installed (thanks Lance!). So the question is if we keep the pendant light, do we update the bulb fitting to an ES27 so we can then use a LED lamp instead of incandescent? Also, we are definitely going to replace the 14 halogen downlights in the kitchen/dining with LEDs and remove the transformers. I'm now a bit confused about putting in LEDs without transformers or drivers and putting in an ES27 downlight can. We would be replacing 50w 240V halogens.
Lance
Key Master
Deannam, just put in standard BC22 fittings if they are the only ones you can find that you like, there are BC22 LED bulbs available such as the Viribrights and the units from Earthled, or you can use BC to ES adaptors.
Re the replacements in the kitchen etc, I would go for ES27 cans as the range of bulbs available is huge. If you want to get rid of the transformers then you need to go for something like that. The alternatives are replacing them with GU10 fittings and using GU10 LED bulbs or going for dedicated fittings like the Brightgreen units, Cree LR4 and LR6 etc, there's quite a few but unless you buy direct from overseas, they are expensive, usually over $100 a fitting from Oz suppliers. Of course, from Oz suppliers the units most likely have Aust Elect approvals, but that doesn't make them any better than unapproved units, they've just been through the process...
deannam
Member
Thanks Lance - that's the lounge sorted. We got it wrong the kitchen is 12V not 240V, so does that mean replacing with MR16 LED bulbs but keeping the transformer, which from the posts I've read can cause issues with interference? If we went this route, would this be a good replacement - from one of your posts: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/mr16-4-led-360-lumen-3500k-warm-white-light-bulb-12v-39027. Alternatively the Brightgreen looks good but obviously a lot more expensive and times 14....
Found a good visual that also answered my questions: http://www.led-depot.com.au/converting-from-halogen-to-led-downlights/
If we installed ES27 fittings instead of GU10, then would the Cree P4 QFs C 12W 4X3W be ok - half the cost of LR4 (but how can I tell it's an ES27 fitting)? But also happy to order from overseas if you can recommend a link?
robbyx
Member
Hi,
Could somebody help me, still bit confused. I like to change my MR16 halogen down lights to led. All these halogen down lights are dimmable. Can I just use normal MR16 LED down lights or do I need dimmable MR16 LED down lights. Or do I need anyways in both cases new transformers ?
Thx Rob
LED Depot Australia
Member
Hi Rob,
Here is an answer to your MR16 Dimmable LED question:
- If you use a non-dimmable MR16 LED, you need to leave the dimmer switch at full brightness. As soon as you try to dim a non-dimmable LED globe, it will turn off.
- So your answer is yes, if you want to dim a MR16, you require a dimmable MR16 LED.
- Now you need to be careful at the type of dimmable MR16 LED you purchase. There are some dimmable MR16 LED's that are designed to work only with LED transformers and there are others that are designed to work with your existing halogen transformers.
- Let me give you an example: The CREE MR16 dimmable LED downlights will flicker if you connect them to your existing transformer whereas the Osram MR16 Parathom Pro Dimmable LED downlight which has been designed to work with halogen-electronic transformers will work fine.
Hope this information helps. If you have further queries, I will be happy to help.
Sebey
Member
Regarding the
LED Depot Australia said:
- Let me give you an example: The CREE MR16 dimmable LED downlights will flicker if you connect them to your existing transformer whereas the Osram MR16 Parathom Pro Dimmable LED downlight which has been designed to work with halogen-electronic transformers will work fine.
It happen the LED flicker because your transformer is not suitable.
I had a problem with some really good quality LED when I try to replace 2XMR16 12V 50W. I find out that the transformer was rated 60 - 120W. My LED are 7W.
I had to change the transformer or use 1 transformer on 6 fixtures.
Hi everyone, first timer here,
Like the original poster (since 3 years ago!), I still have the same problem with most LED replacement bulb (sub AU$30): interference with TV (in my case, channel 9 and 90 is the worst).
Apparently, I still can't have decent LED bulb replacement, unless I spend at least AU$50 for each bulb, for example, Phillips Master LED replacement bulb.
So far, I found SKU57085 (from dealextreme.com) is the best one for non-spot and warm light GU10 (E27 base also available). Definitely no no for enclosed fitting (or even semi-enclosed), mine exploded (well, loud pop) when I install them in semi-enclosed light fitting.
bkidd6797
Member
I recently purchased dimmable LED bulbs from Home Depot (their EcoSmart brand). Similar to other individuals I started having reception issues with my TV antenna. I read through several of the posts, but not the entire 3-years worth. I also figured the technology has probably changed significantly since this forum started. Could anyone recommend dimmable bulbs (CFL or LED) that won't cause issues with TV reception? I had put in CFLs throughout the house except in the rooms that had dimmers (bedrooms and dining room). I had been looking for a good dimmable lighting solution (CFL or LED). I went with the LED but it appears I may need to go in a different direction. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
PeterReefman
Member
Hi all
I made a photo essay on the evolution of LED downlights available in Australia from 2007 till 2012. It is anecdotal and by no means exhaustive, but gives a reasonable overview of how far LEDs have come in the last 5 years, and just how good they are now. Bottom line - It's finally time to get LEDs!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30247641@N04/sets/72157629428372261/with/6774290896/
matthewaqui
Member
The LED lights definitely will save you on the electrical monthly bill. I have an LED bulb turned on year round in my hall way.
At any rate, I have experienced the Digital Signal interference like you have when the LED 40 watt bulb is turned on in either of my bathrooms. LED is best when the application calls for a quick turn on/off situation; life span of the bulb.
At any rate, I have my digital attenna inside of my roof. My digital signal for Channel 7, 7-1, 7-2, and 11-1 usually will get affected by the powering of the LED bulbs. The signal will typically cut out the reception as a whole.
As of recent, I built a Hip Gable roof to my house. In this way, I decided to move the attenna to the exterior of my home, onto a 10 post away from the roof.
All in all, this eliminated the interference when turning on the LED light.
For more info on this, link to http://www.thebuildindex.com
Lance
Key Master
3M has just released details of their version of a GLS bulb, check out http://ledsmagazine.com/news/9/8/21/3Mvtwo08282012 and http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/LEDAdvancedLight/
canyoner
Member
Lance,
Nice concept in the 3M lamp.
Interesting to see how they last with the reflective coating in an outdoor fitting over the life of the lamp.
I've just purchased 2 of the Philips MASTER LED 12-60W E27 2700K 230V A6 for some oyster fittings @ home. We are very impressed with the light output from them. Much brighter than the 15W CFL they replaced. They are instantly on full brightness (but for a 1 sec delay when switching on/off) with none of the ramping up to full brightness you get with CFL. Bonus - they are dimmable! Not cheap either!
I'm slowly renovating the lighting @ home & another option I'm looking at is a LED oyster:
http://www.clalighting.com.au/240v-led-oyster-50000hrs/
Only problem is they are not dimmable.
Crompton also do one, but only in 4000K & non dimmable.
http://www.crompton.com.au/catalog/residential/luminaires/oysters/led-oysters/p/products/xlled116-xl-led-performance-oyster
We do have another supplier with dimmable versions in the pipeline, so I may wait for their one.
Don't want downlights for their insulation draining efforts.
Lance
Key Master
LED4Life have a dimmable option on their oyster, see the pdf at http://members.optusnet.com.au/taxan/OY34.pdf
