I would like some information on whether it works or doesn't make sense to install a fireplace into a new build where I am doing in-slab hydronic heating. I love the atmosphere and mood of a small fireplace but is it just going to mess with the hydronic system I am installing? Can they co-exist?
Hydronic heating with a fireplace?
(14 posts) (10 voices)-
Posted Wednesday 9 Nov 2016 @ 1:35:10 am from IP #
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I dont see why it would be an issue. Same thing goes for wood burners and ducted systems. Make sure the thermostat is far enough away from the fire to not interfere too much.
Multiple zones for the hydronics might also help.
Posted Wednesday 9 Nov 2016 @ 2:37:36 am from IP # -
I have been told by my architect it will interfere too much with the thermostat...should I speak to a hydronic heating specialist about this further then? If its doable and it won't mess with the functionality of the hydronic heating then I am keen to have one installed.
Posted Wednesday 9 Nov 2016 @ 2:57:25 am from IP # -
I am no expert so you should definitely speak with a professional.
It might be that you can run the hydronics during the day (maybe via solar panels powering a heat pump) to store energy into the slab to be released overnight. Then when you want the ambiance/the kids are away then turn off the hydronics and light the fire.
Posted Wednesday 9 Nov 2016 @ 3:12:23 am from IP # -
We have an open fireplace and hydronic heating but the thermostat for the heating is not located in the same room as the fireplace. We have had no problems with temperature control and we use the hydronic to maintain the house generally warm and the fireplace for ambience and a bit of extra warmth for sitting about.
Just make sure you have a baffle installed in the chimney to close it off when not using the fire otherwise you will get draughts from warm air disappearing up the chimney.Posted Thursday 10 Nov 2016 @ 11:42:17 pm from IP # -
i agree with TomC, open fireplaces need a draught up the chimney. Without that the house will fill with smoke. This updraft is taking away all the warmth that your other heating is provideing. Open fireplaces look good but do not actually warm your home they take the warmed air away up the chimney. The only heat that is provided is directly in front of the actual fire and that is either too hot or not hot enough. You need to keep moving to stay warm and not get burnt. i have lived in houses with and without an open fire.
Posted Friday 11 Nov 2016 @ 1:02:56 am from IP # -
So the plan if its doable, is for a freestanding wood heater, not an open fireplace. So in this situation we needn't be concerned with drafts. I hear ya on the thermostat location being kept away. We have an open kitchen, dining room and lounge room where the freestanding wood heater would be, I have asked the question to a fireplace mob and will also follow up with some hydronic heating specialists for their advice. It would be sweet if they could coexist!
Posted Friday 11 Nov 2016 @ 2:47:20 am from IP # -
The earlier suggestion of multiple zones is on the money, the stat in the room with your fire turns off the the rest of the house runs on unless the fire heat distribution is set up well in your place and the heat gets to the rest of the house as well. If it does all is well, warm is warm. In slab heating is a slow reacting heat source, if it goes off for a few hours while the fires on you should hardly notice.
Posted Monday 19 Dec 2016 @ 7:46:33 am from IP # -
At the risk of seeming nuts, what about an 'electric fire'?
We saw one at the recent Melbourne Home Show and were most impressed. This product is 'Modern Flame', but I gather Dimplex does some as well, particularly to retrofit existing fireplaces. The MF styles are wall mounted and very stylish. As long as you have solar panels, the modest power use should not prove to be a major issue. Like you, we are simply after the ambience factor on top of other base heating.
Best of luck.
EdPosted Monday 15 May 2017 @ 11:14:40 am from IP # -
electric fire "modest power use" ????
You must have a different definition of modest to me (-;Posted Tuesday 16 May 2017 @ 12:04:38 am from IP # -
We have a "boiler" with a glass front because we like to see the fire, with our in floor hydronics system. We use a timer not a thermostat system. We tried several thermostat arrangements and none were effective. We found that a thermostat system is in conflict with the characteristics of hydronics. ie the thermostat relies on the place getting cold to turn on and the hot to turn off. The hydronics system by its nature is a beautiful even temp at all times.
There are several reasons for the timer. One is as stated above, is that thermostats are re active. The timer is set to be pro active. Another example is this.... If you opened the back door and the thermostat cuts in, it pumps a heap of water into the floor then by the time it switches off the place is over temp and you cook an hour later.
In practice, if you open the back door for even as long as 10 minutes in the middle of winter, then within a few minutes of closing the door the place is back up to temp regardless, due to the thermal mass in the floor and the fact that the entire building is up to temp at all times.
Another reason is that you will find that you will have the place warmer of an evening but you don't want it that warm to sleep all through the night. Even with the multiple zones you tend to get some heat soak as the night goes on.
Our floor is set up to thermosiphon while the boiler is going which we find is a good natural rate of heat dissipation. Any variation in required heat is taken up with the fact that there is a fire going. (the waste heat) The fire dies out by say 2-3 am. (We let it go out) and at 4am 5.30 and 7am the timer comes on for 15 minutes to keep the temp right for when we rise. The sun takes over after that. If you have a thermostat it keeps the place too hot early in the morning then when the sun comes up you cook again.
We don't normally have the heating going during the day as the sun is more than enough to heat the place. If we do get an unusually cold day we can either press the manual button on the timer or light the fire. (rarely)Posted Tuesday 16 May 2017 @ 5:23:00 am from IP # -
We have a wood fire and hydronic radiators. You'd definitely get some odd results having a thermostat near the fire but as others have mentioned either zone the heating or use a timer. We have two thermostats which are programmed for up to three heating periods per day... but in winter it's always cold so effectively they are just timers!
Posted Saturday 27 May 2017 @ 9:08:01 pm from IP # -
What's your heat source for the hydronics?
Posted Saturday 27 May 2017 @ 9:10:45 pm from IP # -
We have a wood fire, which you cant beat for creating atmosphere in winter! We also have radiators & a domestic hot water tank heated by a condensing boiler. Runs like a beauty. We have a wireless thermostat which is positioned in a different room to the wood fire. The thermostat also has an inbuilt 7 day/24 hour timeclock so will come on in the morning and ensure the house is warm when you get up.
Posted Tuesday 13 Jun 2017 @ 6:53:44 am from IP #