Just wondering whether anyone has experience retrofitting insulated plasterboard. Some of these products list their R-values of up to 4, which strikes me as a relatively simple and cheap way to insulate your walls. The only catch (I see) is space--the R-4 plasterboard is 9cm thick! I am thinking of retrofitting the thickest product to the walls in rooms that will take it; other walls I will use a product half the thickness, straight over the existing plasterboard. As per my name, I'm a complete newby to all this, so I suspect there's a lot I am missing here......
Insulated plasterboard
(17 posts) (6 voices)-
Annette
MemberBut would you want to use it - since batts and similar products are so cheap and available? Have you priced the insulated plasterboard product?
Perhaps useful if you were retrofitting insulation in a concrete block or masonry wall and wanting to save time by using a combined plasterboard and insulation.
35mm is only R1.5. but it might be worthwhile in this case.
Posted Thursday 28 Apr 2016 @ 9:31:54 am from IP # -
newby
MemberBecause batts means tearing out my existing plaster. If I understand right, I can install insulated plaster straight over the top. I'll have to reinstall archetraves and skirting, but this doesn't seem to complicated. If I combine with blown-in insulation, I will have a R6+ wall.
But no, I haven't had them priced - does anyone know?
Posted Thursday 28 Apr 2016 @ 9:55:12 am from IP # -
axess
MemberNewby,
Do you mean 9 cm or 9mm?
Adding extra thickness to the existing wall will have an impact on the architraves, skirting boards,cornices and power points. And how are the sheets joined to each other?
Perhaps you could try it out on one small room first.
Could you provide a link to the proposed product please? Or even just a name.
Posted Thursday 28 Apr 2016 @ 9:52:35 pm from IP # -
Morbo
Memberhow are you going to fix them? From experience the existing platerboard is shody. Glue it on? Plus you have to repaint and all that. Stretch your wiring. Then try ro fix architraves onto a sponge. Windows have to be extended by 90mm. And maybe doors.
9mm will not do R4 anytime soon, so has to be 90.
With all this, its easier and better, rip out the old plaster, straighten walls, put in foil, insulate, plaster again. If lucky, can re-use some of the old skirting.Posted Friday 29 Apr 2016 @ 12:06:33 am from IP # -
i agree with morbo. ultimately cheaper ,quicker and better to remove skirting and architrave , put aside, remove plasterboard ,check wiring ,install insulation make good any repairs , then replaster . sometimes (oftentimes) subtraction is better before addition.
i have learnt the hard way.Posted Friday 29 Apr 2016 @ 8:50:47 am from IP # -
Benny
MemberPrices here...
http://www.bcinsulation.com/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=123
$560 for 8.2sqm so $68/sqm
Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 1:33:37 am from IP # -
Morbo
Membernormal plaster $4 per m^2, R2.5 batts $4 perm^2, sisalation less than $1 per m^2.
If you go for soundcheck, which is a bit denser and way more rigid than the usual, will cost more. But the standard plasterboard is really porous these days, wont last long.Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 2:01:56 am from IP # -
Annette
MemberHi Morbo
Upon what are you basing your comments about plasterboard being really porous these days and not lasting long?
As the owner of a 50 year old house, I can tell you that the original plasterboard in the ceilings had sagged badly and I had to replace mine.
The CD (ceiling density) plasterboard I replaced it with is very strong and still only 10mm thick and comparatively light. It is a good product and fit for purpose of lining walls and ceilings easily and at a reasonable cost.
It is no secret that plasterboard will absorb water. In wet areas, you should use cement based villaboard to avoid this.
I don't understand why you are so negative about standard plasterboard?
Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 3:02:10 am from IP # -
Morbo
MemberI had horsehair plasterboard in my house, could bend it 180 deg, it would not give up. I had a door banging into it, nothing happended. Standard plasterboard, the door handle would just have went straight through.
Get a sample of soundcheck and put it next to gypshit, see the difference...Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 9:05:26 am from IP # -
Annette
MemberCSR does a special impact resistant version too, which I imagine would be preferable for resisting door knobs. Though most people just spend $5 on a door stop!
But both soundchek and the impact resistant version and the fire resistant version of plasterboard will all soak up water - as I expect would the horse hair plaster you mention?
Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 9:43:26 am from IP # -
Morbo
Memberthere are situations, when the doorstop goes missing for a while. The impact resistant plasterboard costs even more than soundcheck. With porous I meant the consistence, its no longer "solid" (for the lack of a better word)plaster, its more aerated.
New plasterboard ceilings, will they be still in shape in 50 years time? Doubt it.Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 11:35:42 am from IP # -
newby
MemberOK, well that's the fastest consensus I've yet seen on this forum!
The take-away is that the performance is good but it won't be cheaper or easier.
I guess I'll save the r-6+ wall dream for a new build, if I ever attempt one.
Thanks all!
Posted Saturday 30 Apr 2016 @ 9:03:09 pm from IP #
