I am having problems trying to arrange for my builder to build walls and a roof with high levels of insulation and air tightness. The quotes have come back very high, more than we can afford. If you have built a highly insulated house would you mind sharing how you constructed your walls and roof to achieve a high level of insulation and air tightness without breaking the bank?
Wall and roof construction
(34 posts) (13 voices)-
David
Membertailend said:
I am having problems trying to arrange for my builder to build walls and a roof with high levels of insulation and air tightness. The quotes have come back very high, more than we can afford. If you have built a highly insulated house would you mind sharing how you constructed your walls and roof to achieve a high level of insulation and air tightness without breaking the bank?Ours (my design) is designed with metal skinned walls and full metal frame the gap in the walls is 300mm from the outside of main frame (inside of the battens) for cladding attachment and to give a small gap to the wrap to the inside of the plasterboard. With the wrap on the outside main metal frame, the combinations of insulation in the walls make it fairly easy to get high levels of insulation. It will take a little bit of messing around to install but worth it.
Ours works out at R6.0+ for the walls.
Posted Thursday 17 Mar 2016 @ 9:30:01 pm from IP # -
check out my earlier post regarding rain screen claddings and advance wall frames .
We really are a long way behind other developed countries in terms of improving stud wall framing. NZ is streets ahead of us ,and they are way behind other cool countries.Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 6:12:41 am from IP # -
efficient design
MemberIf you're trying to build to passivehaus levels then it's difficult to beat SIPS as a fast, cost effective building system. SIPS are simple....
Consider 160mm SIP wall = R5.0
Investigate at http://www.superiorwalls.com.au
Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 6:55:25 am from IP # -
Greg
MemberI believe that spray foam insulation can add a level of air tightness on a budget. Some advertising material here -> http://www.easyfoam.com.au/about/icynene-system.html
Last time I saw prices they were approx $22 / sq m. This may offer you an alternative but you will have to work out costings and see if you are satisfied with that level of insulation and air leakage.
If you want passivhaus standard well that is way differentPosted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 7:05:06 am from IP # -
tailend
MemberThanks everyone for your suggestions. We are aiming for passivhous levels of insulation and air tightness, although we will be happy if we come close as our budget is limited. I have encountered many designs in my research, the challenge for me is to find a system that a builder unfamiliar to passivhous construction is comfortable to build. I may be asking too much and perhaps should look for another builder, which would be a shame.
David, I am having trouble visualizing how you avoid thermal bridging when using a metal frame. Do you have more information?
Dave, lots of resources in your linked post. It will take me a while to read them. The advanced wall framing looks interesting. Have you seen it used in Australia?
Efficient Design, finding a builder that is comfortable with SIPS is even more of a challenge. I am in Canberra and they are rare as hens teeth here.
Greg, spray on foam seems more common in the USA than Australia. I have also come across videos of where it has gone horribly wrong.
I am currently thinking of using a stud wall with additional layers to boost insulation and provide air tightness.
The layers for the wall would be:
- Outside veneer (steel and stone)
- 6mm Fibre Cement Board or plywood
- 30-40mm Battens
- 50mm XPS/PIR & foil panels (or perhaps a 2nd stud wall)
- 90mm Stud wall with R2.5 earthwool batts
- 5mm Sheeting (OSB, plywood or any cheap sheeting to attach the wrap)
- Sticky Wrap - air, moisture and vapor impervious. Wraps walls and ceiling with no unsealed penetrations.
- 30-40mm Battens
- 10mm Plasterboard
and for the roof:
- 17mm Metal sheets
- 30-40mm Battens
- Wrap - water tight, moisture permeable.
- 5-10mm Sheeting (thicker if it is structural, thin if only used for the wrap)
- Rafters – top chord
- Air gap between top chord and batts. Possibly vented?
- 275mm - R6 batts in a tight fitting layer with no gaps.
- 5mm Sheeting (OSB, plywood or any cheap sheeting to provide a surface for the layer 7 batts and for tradesmen to walk on)
- Rafters – bottom chord with R3-4 batts installed to the top of the chord
- 5mm Sheeting (OSB, plywood or any cheap sheeting to attach the wrap)
- Sticky Wrap - air, moisture and vapor impervious. Wraps walls and ceiling with no unsealed penetrations.
- 30-40mm Battens
- 10mm Plasterboard
I am not sure that my design is optimal, hence I am looking for alternatives that work.
Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 10:37:09 am from IP # -
efficient design
MemberOMG tailend.....no wonder why you are balking at the estimates from the trades.....layer upon layer upon layer upon layer!!!!, and yet a 60 sec action of tilting a 160mm SIP panel into place for the completed wall can achieve greater R-values & airtightness, and dropping a 175mm panel on for the roof with colorbond finished profile...in simple terms K.I.S.S
Your comment about "finding a builder that is comfortable with SIPS is even more of a challenge" is not my experience. Many builders are aware of this emerging technology.
The plans I produce are like Lego plans....if a 7-year old can assemble a toy from a coloured plan, and, a builder says it's too difficult, then that builder has serious issues reading plans.
Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 11:25:26 am from IP # -
tezz
MemberWith so much material and the relevant trades involved it's difficult to imagine this on a tight budget, and I've tried this myself over several years
There is a passive haus .au website, but in Canberra ( Fyshwick ) there's a high end " consulting " as well as Sales firm that should know local conditions, http://www.laros.com.au
Also in Canberra there's a 9 Star home, built with the Econwall system, though they may not currently be actively marketing the system.
It uses outer and inner sheets, foam, FC etc, with an inner concrete core .. The more sheeting, the higher R rating, the concrete width can also vary. It's a straightforward system. There's a few online articles around.From my evaluations, an MgO SIPs system is probably the very best value for the investment, as the construction is easy, the large panels minimise handling, there's less waste and with large panels there's fewer gaps to seal to make it weather tight. Ditto for sandwich type roofing panels, the thicker they are, the higher the R. The MgO sheeting adds better fire protection than most other systems.
Obviously your target R needs are governed by your Climate Zone, and I'm not qualified to comment on that in a any way.
I looked for the best balance of Energy and buildability
There are a number of suppliers, and it's only a small segment of the market, but a few ATA threads will aid your knowledge, and help you choose a "trusted" supplier, as some have come and gone, and risen again. I'd check out ED's system to get a bit of a perspective.- note - no vested interests and in the end I gave up building new, but adapted what I found on an older place.
"Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 3:10:27 pm from IP # -
tailend
MemberEveryone, thanks for the advice. I think that my take home message is that I need to look for another builder. I thought that my construction requirements were straight forward - R4-6 for the walls, R7-11 for the roof, U2 or less for the windows, very air tight (we will use HRV), minimal thermal bridging, durable/long life, verifiable performance, low maintenance, resistant against an ember attack. The builder we selected is very experienced and has an excellent reputation. My stud wall design is my attempt to get the builder to think about what is required, but I seem to have only succeeded in scaring them. I actually do not mind how the house is constructed so long as it meets our requirements and looks good. I am also prepared to pay extra to get the extra quality.
At one stage I considered double concrete block construction using designer blocks, and was prepared to pay a modest premium for it. Unfortunately the builder's quote was too high - over $700 per m2 just for the walls.
I started this project using an architect with strong green credentials, but that was a disaster. I am now using a very experienced architect who has no pasivhous or zero energy house experience. We love the solar passive design that the architect has come up with, but turning that into a build has been a long drawn out process with no end in sight. I think that my approach to finding a builder was flawed - I underestimated the need for a builder that has strong green credentials and experience. Fortunately I have a couple of names that I can try.
One more thing, I think that the difficulty we are having with the builder is that they do not "get" what we are asking for. They keep suggesting ideas that compromise one of our requirements.
Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 10:36:26 pm from IP # -
Bushwalker
MemberI think if you have a near complete house design that you like, you should then pass it over to a passive house designer to make appropriate construction design modifications to deliver the thermally efficient house you actually want.
I'm not a PH designer, but I do know a good one here in SA who designs and builds all around Australia. If it is of any interest, send me a pm and I will send you contact details.
Getting an Aussie traditional builder on track to build to PH standards would be a significant challenge. There are courses and tests run at Box Hill TAFE. They may be able to help point you to appropriate designers and builders in your region:
http://www.boxhill.edu.au/courses/certified-passive-house-designer-cphd1-sc/
http://www.boxhill.edu.au/courses/certified-passive-house-tradesperson-cpht1-sc/Posted Friday 18 Mar 2016 @ 11:44:06 pm from IP # -
Annette
MemberHas the builder been suggesting alternatives because they are trying to provide you with cheaper options to meet your budget? There is a lot of labour involved in your list of insulation layers.
From discussion on the Rennovate Forum, it seems like builders around Canberra - especially Goulburn way, charge an arm and a leg!
Posted Saturday 19 Mar 2016 @ 12:31:08 am from IP # -
tailend
MemberAnnette said:
Has the builder been suggesting alternatives because they are trying to provide you with cheaper options to meet your budget?No. They have been very active costing the designs I provide but are missing in action when I ask them to suggest an alternative. This is, I think, because they lack experience with low energy housing.
Annette said:
From discussion on the Rennovate Forum, it seems like builders around Canberra - especially Goulburn way, charge an arm and a leg!This makes me sad.
Posted Saturday 19 Mar 2016 @ 2:01:10 am from IP # -
tailend
Memberdave lawrence said:
check out my earlier post regarding rain screen claddings and advance wall frames .
We really are a long way behind other developed countries in terms of improving stud wall framing. NZ is streets ahead of us ,and they are way behind other cool countries.I found this article which analyses 17 wall construction systems for cost and performance against a range of criteria. The wall I deigned was wall type 4 but with some extra unnecessary layers. It includes advanced framing systems, SIPS, ICF and even double stud construction. The R values need to be converted to metric (divide by 5.678263337). I am not sure if the $US cost per sq ft can be converted into Australian prices, but it does seem to indicate relative cost.
Posted Saturday 19 Mar 2016 @ 4:25:25 am from IP # -
axess
Membertailend,
I would be very wary of using systems designed for a totally different building environment. There are SIPS suppliers in Australia (mostly using products imported from locations including China, Romania and Canada) who will happily refer you to builders who are familiar with their products. Ozone for example sells through Bowens in Victoria.
The Melbourne builder Positive Footprints for example, who present to conferences about sustainable building, are members of the Master Builders Green Building section. Similar builders exist in other states.But specialist builders will charge more for their knowledge and experience as well as the additional costs attached to buildings with high performance insulation systems.
If you are building a house with high performance features such as high levels of insulation and a "tight" building envelope then you really need some industrial oversight either by a designer, project manager, architect (dare I say it!)or as a committed active owner builder. Without this level of oversight (and preferably a contract linked fan door test) you won't know if you are getting what you are paying for.
If, on the other hand, you are building a fairly standard house on a restricted budget then close attention to the use of a high quality layered wall wrap, taped as required, and correct installation of wall and ceiling batts etc is a good start. Double glazed windows and doors, correct orientation, high quality efficient appliances and preferably solar PV that is "battery ready" and either heat pump or solar hot water are reasonable goals.
You could compromise by checking which local builders have been winning the sustainable building awards as well. And a lot of builders do relish a challenge if given the opportunity but they still have to provide a warranty on the result. Caution rules and generally speaking, difference costs more.
Good luck with the house.
Posted Saturday 19 Mar 2016 @ 5:04:37 am from IP # -
tailend
Memberaxess said:
I would be very wary of using systems designed for a totally different building environment.What I liked about the article was that it applied some scientific rigor to analysing wall systems using fairly useful criteria. Using a wall system designed for another market requires careful thought but can be done. We would need to consider local trades and materials, differences in local costs, local regulations, and local climate conditions. This is where a suitably experienced builder or adviser will help.
axess said:
If you are building a house with high performance features such as high levels of insulation and a "tight" building envelope then you really need some industrial oversight either by a designer, project manager, architect (dare I say it!) or as a committed active owner builder.Your suggestion to get some industrial oversight is well made. We did try to use a suitably qualified Architect and Builder earlier in the project, but that failed because we wanted more than just an energy efficient house - we also wanted a good design adapted to our requirements and lifestyle. We are now looking at Laros filling the oversight role. Owner builders are a rare breed - I have enormous respect for someone who can do this but I know my limitations.
axess said:
If, on the other hand, you are building a fairly standard house on a restricted budget then ...Building a higher quality standard house is our fallback, and is not a bad option if we cannot reign in costs, however I am still confident that we can do better. In my view, the benefits of a zero energy house is primarily about comfort and lifestyle, although sustainability and lower ongoing costs are big benefits also.
axess said:
Good luck with the house.Thanks
Posted Saturday 19 Mar 2016 @ 5:56:01 pm from IP # -
efficient design
MemberHi tailend, I must say you have researched well.
For my curiosity &, I guess the Forums, how many $/m2 are you prepared to invest for the completed wall envelope?
Roof envelope:- what R-value are you desiring to achieve & what is your projected $/m2 investment for that completed system?
What is the overall wall thickness of your design:- is it based on exactly the same as the American report which for wall type 4 achieves R-4.755
Floor system: are you considering a concrete slab; 150mm? ground coupled or maybe perimeter & edge insulation?BTW - the SIP system researched in the article is OSB. OSB SIPS & MgO SIPS are different animals. MgO SIPS is a complete system, not requiring layered construction (gyprock, cladding etc)
If the MgO SIP had been researched, the resultant rating for Constructability, Cost, & Material use would be much higherPosted Saturday 19 Mar 2016 @ 7:54:46 pm from IP # -
tailend
Memberefficient design said:
For my curiosity &, I guess the Forums, how many $/m2 are you prepared to invest for the completed wall envelope?I do not have a figure in mind, mainly because I do not have the experience to make a judgment. I am interested in other people's experience.
The architect we are using now designs larger houses for the Canberra market. He has a thriving business and has won many awards. His target build price is $2,500 per m2 for a good quality custom built 6 star house. The earlier architect we used specialises in smaller 8 star houses and his target price was $3,000 to $4,000 per m2. The extra cost is driven by two factors, higher stars comes at a cost, and smaller houses cost more per m2 all else being equal. Our current target price is $3,000 per m2 but we are way above that at the moment.
efficient design said:
Roof envelope:- what R-value are you desiring to achieveIdeally R10 but I will settle for R7 if need be. This is the real world R value, so includes the effects of wind, thermal bridging, and less than perfect installation.
efficient design said:
What is the overall wall thickness of your design:- is it based on exactly the same as the American report which for wall type 4 achieves R-4.755I came up with my wall design before I saw that report. It is similar to wall type 4 except it has an additional service duct layer inside and an extra later outside, so will be more expensive to build. The service duct layer was to keep the services from compromising the bats. The extra layer outside was to provide additional protection against fire. The walls I deigned are 245mm thick and achieve an R value of over 4.5. I would not recommend my design as it has not been assessed by an appropriate specialist. Water, vapor and termite control is critical.
efficient design said:
Floor system: are you considering a concrete slab; 150mm? ground coupled or maybe perimeter & edge insulation?The builder recommended 120mm thick insulated raft slab and this seems fine to me. The tricky part is to eliminate thermal bridging at the perimeter and the footings, which can be done with the right products. I did some modeling of the benefits of ground coupling the slab and concluded that the ground is too cold in Canberra for this to work well. I was also swayed by the anecdotal experience of others (including some on this forum).
efficient design said:
BTW - the SIP system researched in the article is OSB. OSB SIPS & MgO SIPS are different animals. MgO SIPS is a complete system, not requiring layered construction (gyprock, cladding etc)
If the MgO SIP had been researched, the resultant rating for Constructability, Cost, & Material use would be much higherAgreed.
Posted Sunday 20 Mar 2016 @ 6:01:32 am from IP # -
efficient design
MemberMany thanks tailend for such a detailed reply. I believe readers will appreciate this.
I applaud your commitment to achieve a near (?) carbon neutral home. You're the acceptation rather than the rule.
My clients have heart palpitations when I start talking >$1500/m2 (Mainly Climate Zone 2/5/6) and yet we can deliver a 7~8 Star design incorporating SIPS walls & roof. I did my house as an owner-builder for $1100/m2 for 8+Stars (Zone 2)
I'm looking forward to dealing with clients who desire to push the envelope into passivhaus standards.....I have a firm conviction that SIPS will make this an affordable option.....the Germans & Brits already do it.
A pet wish is a SIP suspended floor, but I believe it's not economically viable to pay for the development costs of such here in Australia.
Re perimeter slab insulation, Magroc NZ have a great concept http://www.magroc.co.nz/products/insulfound/ There maybe a future in Australia for this....but 99% of clients are only worried about $$$$, not exceptional energy efficient design.
Go well with your project.... ED
Posted Sunday 20 Mar 2016 @ 7:10:03 am from IP # -
axess
Memberefficient design
Re the SIP suspended floor: What about a modified cassette system that incorporates high insulation levels? Pryda, Tecbeam and Timbertruss are using these technologies,
and may have insulation solutions in the pipeline.No one ever wants to spend research or development money in Australia despite benefiting from our relatively cashed up market here it seems. Unless you are a building supplies company who want to offer reduced installation costs to customers (builders) to offset site costs. The house building prices generally won't drop unless the newer technologies then become ubiquitous, with many competing suppliers.
Posted Sunday 20 Mar 2016 @ 8:36:27 pm from IP # -
efficient design
MemberThanks axess for the input.
Yes, it is quite easy to lay SIP panels over a structural flooring system, but I've yet to find someone who is prepared to pay for this. There is also the issue of impact on building height....I'm currently involved with a 3-storey house that is over 10m from FGL... insulated SIP flooring is out of the question.
What I have in mind is a structurally spanning SIP that eliminates or dramatically reduces floor joist & therefore making the system more affordable. The testing regime is onerous with at least 4 different initial tests (very expensive)....all for a potentially tiny market.
Unfortunately, the only way to make innovative systems a reality is a change in legislation to accommodate Australia's compliance to CO2 emissions.
Posted Monday 21 Mar 2016 @ 9:22:54 pm from IP # -
Greg
MemberAll the technologies you are seeking are available in Fyshwick. maybe contact these people and get some pricing or at least hook up with their recommended builders maybe.They do consulting and list their hourly rates on their website
eg Structural thermal breaks -> http://www.laros.com.au/structural-thermal-breaking/
They do passivhaus consulting @ $165/hr
Good luck
Posted Tuesday 22 Mar 2016 @ 12:45:40 am from IP # -
Jim
MemberHi tailend
I came across your post and this website by accident. This is my first post here and I may be able to help you but will be upfront in advising you that my Perth Based company sells products which may or may not meet your needs. I am unlikely to receive any financial benefit if you choose to purchase as it would go through an eastern states based distributor. More on that later. My apologies if I am breaking forum rules as I actually haven't looked into what they are and if I have then the moderators should feel free to delete this post if they see fit. Lastly it is not my intention to spend my days on this website and suggest anyone who has further questions to contact me directly. If you choose to do so please consider the time difference as I am in Western Australia.
I am wondering what you hope to achieve by having a roof rated R11, walls rated R7 and windows at a U value of 2. Logically the building "envelope" the you speak of will only ever perform to the standard of the weakest link. Any insulation value achieved above the weakest link will potentially be wasting your money. I am not advocating building your house down however and I suggest that you consider building your house to one realistically achievable number so that the walls, windows, roof and floor work together in harmony. I am sure you have heard of the saying a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
One of the products that my company represents is called Durisol. This is a proprietary ICF product made from 80% recycled wood fibre and Cement. It has no VOC, is termite proof, has passed the AS NZS 1530.3-1999 fire test and has excellent thermal and sound insulation qualities. A 200mm thick concrete core and steel reinforced filled Durisol wall has a U value of about 0.70, is 7.5 times stronger than double brick construction and can be built for prices less than you have mentioned. Local factors of which I am unaware may come into play however it should not be of a major significance.
Re strength of construction google search "durisol last house standing" if you would like too see photographic evidence of whats left of a Durisol house after hurricane katrina
There is no builder for Durisol in Canberra at present however a residence is about to commence construction in Melbourne, and this same builder will most likely also be building a Sydney residence out of Durisol at around the same time. It is possible that they would build in Canberra. There are numerous benefits to using Durisol but of course I will say that as it is one of my products. To do your own research you can start at
This will take you to an international website as the Australian Specific site is yet to commence construction. If you like what you see and would like further information then contact me directly. The same applies if you would like the builders information. For your information we have over the past 9-10 years assisted many Perth owner builders with our construction products and techniques.
I am also involved in Double and Triple Glazed windows and can say that all are not created equal. Cost is always a significant part of the equation but more importantly is the cost in relation to the quality of the window. This is frequently overlooked as most people don't know what to consider.
In my opinion you should look for as low as a U value number as possible for the glass and the frame. Glass is measured as Ug, the frame is Uf and the total of the two and all hardware etc is Uw. Uw is sometimes referred to as just U. Of course if the installation is no good then having a low U value is not money well spent. You also need to consider the quality of the hardware, is it salt resistant and if so to what rating. All glass is not created equal and we will only be using grade 1 glass which is manufactured in one of europe's longest established glass mills. Yes you can by cheaper glass which has higher margins for the retailer and less benefit for you and they still call it double and triple glazing (because it is) but its quality might not be the best you can get for your money. The same applies to the frame and hardware. Do your research.
The windows that I will be representing (once again in Western Australia) are manufactured in Europe but to our Australian Standards. This means the frame, glass and hardware will be to suit our coastal and solar conditions. Salt corrosion is not a real issue in Europe. Heat entering windows is actually something they want in real cold climates so different glass is required for us.
My triple glazing will have a U value of 0.61 and my double glazing will have a U value of 1.1. To purchase quality european built windows at these ratings in Australia in the past was virtually impossible unless you paid an absolute premium. Prices are not finalised yet and obviously the exchange rate and architectural design always has implications for final price but for a top of the range triple glazed uPVC window which is externally skinned in aluminium you can expect to pay around $1100- $1500 per sqm of window (inc frame). Double glazing will be between $700-$1100 per sqm. These prices are plus installation and GST.
I recently returned from Austria to undergo training in the very latest installation methods and will share the following with you so that you may have an understanding of how far advanced they are now compared to just a few short years ago. They advised that before they became focussed on the quality of the installation an average Austrian installer would install about 15 windows per day (the average window size in Austria is smaller than our average Australian window size), and now it is 5 a day. As you can appreciate the cost of installation would have gone up but so would have the end result. We are now able to offer a fully sealed wall to frame and glass to frame install. One of the issues we face here is some of the products that they use in the install are simply not available in Australia. We will be bring these products into Australia for our installers to use on our window installations exclusively. We will not be selling these products to the general public or others as this is not the focus of what we do.
FYI There are two Perth owner builder residences under construction presently, both of which will be have the triple glazed windows installed in the second half of this year. Both residences are being built with 200mm Durisol Walls. The Melbourne and Sydney Residences will both be Durisol walls and most likely our windows. We also have a builder that has residences under construction in South Australia utilising Durisol and our window range. Of course my own dwelling which is also under construction will have my triple glazing and the walls are 200mm Durisol too. You can get a Durisol wall 350mm thick if you so chose.
I am unwilling to provide further window information on this website at this time as there are still some production and shipping matters to resolve but will be will to speak to you if you or anyone else would like more information about the windows and Durisol.
Best regards
Jim
Posted Wednesday 23 Mar 2016 @ 8:43:44 am from IP # -
tailend
MemberDurisol WA said:
I am wondering what you hope to achieve by having a roof rated R11, walls rated R7 and windows at a U value of 2. Any insulation value achieved above the weakest link will potentially be wasting your money.I am actually aiming for a roof rating of between R7 and R10, wall rating between R4 and R7, and a window U rating of under 2 (actually under 1 for the windows we like). I think that these figures are high for a normal house but perfectly fine for a highly insulated house. The weakest link is the windows, which is why we are investing extra to get good quality ones, however the overall performance of the house is not equal to the window performance, rather it is the sum of the energy leakage across all exterior surfaces. This can be easily modeled in a spreadsheet.
Durisol WA said:
I am also involved in Double and Triple Glazed windows and can say that all are not created equal. Cost is always a significant part of the equation but more importantly is the cost in relation to the quality of the window. This is frequently overlooked as most people don't know what to consider.Agreed.
Durisol WA said:
My triple glazing will have a U value of 0.61 and my double glazing will have a U value of 1.1. To purchase quality european built windows at these ratings in Australia in the past was virtually impossible unless you paid an absolute premium. Prices are not finalised yet and obviously the exchange rate and architectural design always has implications for final price but for a top of the range triple glazed uPVC window which is externally skinned in aluminium you can expect to pay around $1100- $1500 per sqm of window (inc frame). Double glazing will be between $700-$1100 per sqm. These prices are plus installation and GST.Your post does seem more like marketing than informative.
We are planning to use aluminum and timber triple glazed windows from a Canberra supplier. Their U rating is similar to your windows (U0.8) however I do not think that this figure is directly comparable to Australian windows on the WERS website as testing conditions are different. These windows are cheaper than yours - more like your double glazed prices - so it pays to shop around.
Posted Thursday 24 Mar 2016 @ 9:43:20 pm from IP # -
tailend
MemberAnnette said:
Are your proposed windows not assessed on the WERS site?Unfortunately not that I can find. The windows and doors we are looking at are fully imported European frames with locally installed glass. The U rating will be tested under European conditions. It would be nice to also see them tested under Australian conditions, but I expect that the windows will need to become more popular before we see that happen. For that reason, I would use the provided U values as indicative only and not directly comparable.
From the WERS website:
WERS is accredited by the Australian Fenestration Rating Council (AFRC) and adheres to AFRC protocols and procedures for the rating of windows and glazed doors.WERS talks about the different rating systems in this document.
In Europe windows are calculated to CEN protocols which utilise different temperature conditions to find the performance data of their windows. The windows will have different results to the performance data conducted in Australia.
Posted Thursday 24 Mar 2016 @ 10:51:07 pm from IP # -
Annette
MemberWhat arrangements does your supplier have to obtain the required certificate of compliance for the glazing?
I ask, because my building surveyor said all windows need this documentatiion or they can't be OKed by the surveyor for NCC compliance.
WERS can give you more info about the requirements too.
Posted Friday 25 Mar 2016 @ 2:48:35 am from IP # -
tailend
MemberAnnette said:
What arrangements does your supplier have to obtain the required certificatem of compliance for the glazing?I will ask them before I order the windows, however I am not being a pioneer with the windows so I doubt that this is a problem.
Posted Friday 25 Mar 2016 @ 4:35:51 am from IP #
