Does anyone know what has happened/is happening to Timbercrete in Victoria please?
We are intersted in this product but apparently no longer available in Victoria.
Thanks
Timbercrete
(19 posts) (14 voices)-
rusty iron
MemberI would be very wary of using TIMBERCRETE. We are building a house near Ballarat with it and have BIG problems with the mortar not adhering to the bricks. TIMBERCRETE only seem to want to sell you the bricks then your on your own. a great product on paper but reality is very different.
Posted Sunday 30 Sep 2012 @ 4:57:02 am from IP # -
gabs247
Memberany feedback on these?
I was looking at these at one stage, but got sucked back into the cost outlay vs potential gain risk...and my wife didn't really like the look of them
she's "sorta" changed her mind now...but maybe I was lucky I didn't go down that track? I'm not in Victoria though.
Posted Tuesday 2 Oct 2012 @ 6:53:39 am from IP # -
ptmgoessens
MemberWe're also planning to build using Timbercrete, in East Gippsland.
The contact for VIC sits in SA, bit of a nuisance, but can be handled.To respond to rusty_iron's comment, I've got the "Price List (for Building)" here at hand, and at the bottom it states following:
"Prices do not include, sealant, recommended mortar additives or pallet & wrapping costs"
This comment implies they are well aware of special mortar requirements, and in that case I cannot imagine they would not inform any buyer of what that then is.Posted Thursday 4 Oct 2012 @ 1:16:01 am from IP # -
Glenno
MemberHi All,
It's Glenn here from Timbercrete in Adelaide.
I have sent a PM to rusty-iron and the concerns they have about Timbercrete and hoping to resolve any issues.
The franchise in Victoria closed in January and since then we have been manufacturing and sending blocks from here in Adelaide, we apologise for any inconvenience, however, at the moment this is where it needs to stay. You can also receive blocks from the Timbercrete Western Sydney if they are in closer proximity.
Timbercrete now has supplied blocks to thousands of homes worldwide with very little issues, however, on occasions there has been mortar issues with cracking in joints. Our studies have shown that the mortar can sometimes shrink 5 times more than that of a Timbercrete brick, as the blocks themselves, after they have cured, have very little movement. Because of this we recommend certain types of sand in the mortar and additives to the mortar to reduce the potential to this problem. Personally, here in Adelaide and in Victoria over the last 6 years there have been some issues but of late there has been very little when installed correctly following our guidelines on sand types in Mortar and using the correct additives.
I hope that helps, if you have any further queries please ask away.
GlennPosted Monday 8 Oct 2012 @ 12:18:35 am from IP # -
8688john
MemberHi,
I have just been building with Timbercrete and haven’t had any particular problem with mortar.
The ‘Timbercrete Manual’, which can be downloaded from their web site, is recommended reading. It provides detailed advice regarding mortar, including how to prepare a test panel to check for shrink cracking, colour and any other problems. I made up several such panels, and settled on a ‘brew’ that I kept with all the way through - including always measuring all ingredients with the same buckets.
As a complete novice I had to learn a few lessons the hard way (applicable to me anyway):
1. Don’t mix too much mortar at once (I settled on 60 litres dry ingredients)
2. lay the mortar bed one block at a time
3. fully position and tap down each block as you lay it
4. fine adjustments to a block are okay if it is moved when laying the following block
5. don’t try and further adjust a block ‘later’; either live with it, or remove and refit the block with fresh mortarProfessionals might laugh at the above?, but it worked for me. The only instances I had any problem with adhesion was either (a) using mortar that was going off or (b) adjusting a block too long after being laid.
We are in the western suburbs of Melbourne, and our Timbercrete came from Timbercrete Riverina, in Culcairn. This supplier is no longer trading, which is a pity, as they were very supportive to us.
Regards,
Posted Monday 8 Oct 2012 @ 10:26:14 am from IP # -
Waynecottrell
MemberHi all, just looking into actually using this product in northern NSW and would like some feedback if anyone is willing. I am looking at renovating my small railway cottage, knocking half of it down and rebuilding plus extending it a bit. Its roughly 50sq of extension with 10 foot ceilings. my main concerns are costs and whether builders would be willing to use it. I'm looking at the single skin super insulated blocks, I know they are quite thick but the idea of extra insulation really appeals as the rest of the existing house is in much need of some, something I'm looking at in due course. Thanks in advance.
Posted Monday 12 Nov 2012 @ 10:12:33 am from IP # -
8688john
MemberHi Wayne, I suggest the first step should be to speak to a local (?) Timbercrete dealer and confirm that they are able/willing to make the super insulator blocks for you. Something else to think about; the blocks are mortared together, the R value of mortar being very much lower than that of the blocks. Whether this matters much in practice, I am not so sure, though theory says the wall system R value is degraded appreciably. On the other hand, you cannot have drafts in the wall cavity.
Posted Wednesday 14 Nov 2012 @ 9:55:04 pm from IP # -
Western Sydney
MemberHi All
I sell Timbercrete in Western Sydney. We have many jobs over the eg the last 12 months. There have been 2 problem jobs, unfortunately with builders. When challenged about 'usiing the manual', they said yes, but on site visit and challenged to submit mortar board test, it turned out both jobs were mismanaged. I came across Timbercrete via a knowledge researcher at an architectural practice I programmed for...I was so taken by it. It has properties which are quite abstract. I simply recommend finding someone who used a good builder (or built well themselves) and experience the qualities yourself, from the acoustic ambience (Im a sound engineer by trade), it is so pleasing and the thermal inertia is unparalleled.
I can assure you the bond wrench strength has been well tested and documented. Im sure Glen would agree, that sending a sample of 2 sample bricks mortared together will answer the question without agenda.
ThanksPosted Friday 11 Jan 2013 @ 9:23:34 am from IP # -
nickofmyra
MemberHi, my first post. We built our house last year using timbercrete cut into blocks/tiles for use as cladding on a cement sheet base and whilst I appreciate that people have had trouble with cement there are solutions. In our case the guy we hired had laid timbercrete before and he had a few clues. We tried cement, various tile glues and finally he went back a glue that you use for swimming pool tiles and cost about $11 a bag from the big green warehouse chain. So far no problems despite heavy rain in the early days and now days of 40 plus heat. It looks great and from the point of view regarding the star rating and also bushfire rating it comes up trumps.
Posted Tuesday 15 Jan 2013 @ 2:14:33 pm from IP # -
gabs247
MemberIt is interesting to hear different stories. I am very keen to build a sustainable house, but I'm always hesitant to go against the grain. My issues are:
- the look, it's not that bad, and I'm sure it'd grow on us, but it is different and it will fade
- weather proofing, how often does it have to be done, what are the long term effects
- getting it done right, so that it works well and there aren't ongoing issues
- cost, it's going to cost more from both materials and specialised labour, does that outweigh the benefitswhen I tried looking into this, I found there wasn't much info out there, so thought it was just easier to go the traditional route, with it's pitfalls. but at least I know what to expect.
plus, I didn't really just want a Timbercrete skin, I wanted to use it throughout, and then the costs really escalate especially with doing things a certain way. anyway, that's just my opinion.
I was really looking for alternative materials and Timbercrete looked like a really good option, but in the end the majority of new houses are still Brick Veneer, whether it's right or wrong, that's where the materials are scaled and labour is specialised.
Posted Wednesday 16 Jan 2013 @ 12:23:16 am from IP # -
Western Sydney
MemberI encourage a holistic approach, to be fair, when it comes to single skin ie as far as quantity survey goes. Eg we have had rates for block laying go from approx $4 up to $7 per block. So thats for a block that is approx 6.5 normal bricks. General brick rate can be anywhere from 77c up to $1 per normal brick (Sydney area 10/01/2013). So even at the dearest block rate, that is approx $1.07. Now take into account the removal of stud wall, building paper, much less mortar/sand, insulation etc...then is a single skin in Timbercrete really that much dearer? Be warned; even though they are laying a lot less bricks, for various reasons, they arent any faster to lay.
You get what you pay for. I currently live in a BV house I project managed and built through a building company I work for: am looking forward to the next build using TC.
I will say that we have many repeat customers though...once they have built this way, the advantages become glaringly obvious and the standard BV method becomes a poor second. HTH. I encourage a contact of a local rep who will direct you to some builds. Many owners are happy to chat about their experience and I think that is the best testimony. There are occasional problems but as mentioned...you just need to read the manual. Peace...MarkPosted Sunday 20 Jan 2013 @ 10:10:19 am from IP # -
baksteen
MemberBringing some new life to this post...
I'm mainly after:
- an energy efficient house
- a cavity free house (thus blocks, panels, concrete,... based, rather than framed)
- strong and durable
- fire resistant
- low maintenance
- economical
As a result I'm investigating multiple options: SIP panels, Benex, Hebel powerblock, ICF and also Timbercrete.
We're planning to build in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne.
Currently the Timbercrete (super insulator) has my preference, however I'm unable to find an experienced builder in my area.
I would love to visit a few examples or/and hear some experiencesany suggestions?
I also wonder on your experience with the "serving two masters" aspect of timbercrete - that is high insulation and high thermal mass. Mainly after reading following quote
The timbercrete is used on all of east and portion of north and south wall. The north east room in summer could become extremely hot so certainly needed aircon. BTW Canowindra climate probably colder than Perth but not quite as hot.
Don't know claimed insulation figures but like I stated earlier I would doubt any claims to have good thermal mass and insulation in the one product.does this imply that you can only use timbercrete for a part of the house to get the best out of it?
Posted Wednesday 17 Jul 2013 @ 11:47:49 am from IP # -
Lindsay
MemberYour question regarding any ideas for experienced builders in the area?
Have you thought of using the Mudbrick Trade Guide from the Nillumbik Mudbrick Association.I am going to build next year using timbercrete in the Northern suburbs of Melbourne.
Posted Tuesday 30 Jul 2013 @ 3:45:40 am from IP # -
pappinbarra
MemberI am building my own house on mid north coast of nsw and used a mortar that is a small majority of sand with a gravel and clay quarry material that has been double crushed and 8-10% cement. It is extremely strong but takes some working to lay,as mentioned earlier- one at a time. The joints are raked when the mortar is still quite moist. I have learnt not to be overzealous with the number to lay in a day. Brickies are whingers and are best avoided unless a good one can be found. Like all tradesmen, there is an occassional willing and able one to be found.
It is important for any house to have wide eaves and verandahs wherever possible, no windows on the west and orientated to benefit from the winter sun. The energy saving starts with the fact that they are air cured (kiln fired bricks suck energy)which also means that they do not absorb moisture and expand.
Plus they are australian owned business and you won't be feeding the multinational juggernautPosted Tuesday 30 Jul 2013 @ 9:36:39 am from IP # -
gabs247
MemberHi baksteen, i'm in Adelaide and planning on using TC with our house; it'll likely be the first that's actually in the Adelaide plains, as most here are in the Hills and Southern suburbs (probably because TC is located there and also the weather is colder). It'll be interesting to see how it goes in the warmer/drier weather.
Originally, I was planning on DB along the Northern wall, but due to changes in design, it's going to be too much of a hassle so just doing a plain BV house now (with TC on the outside) and so probably not going to get much benefit out of it. Apart from being more sustainable product than clay, it's also at least twice as light, and with heavy clay soils this will reduce the load on the footings. We are also creating a Media room in the middle of the house with 150mm thick TC bricks all around, and one wall adjoins the main open living (Family) room as well. So it'll be interesting to see how the thermal/acoustic properties go there...planning to leave it exposed, but happy to line it with gyprock/plaster if needed acoustically in the Media room. It will provide a large mass in the Family room, which will require more heating probably as it's not going to get much Winter sun. But considering we'll be more worried about the HEAT, it may help strip some from the room (that's the theory anyway).
Unfortunately, it's all theory and a work-in-progress at the moment...so can't give you any actual feedback, yet.
Posted Thursday 1 Aug 2013 @ 1:58:00 am from IP #
